Dave Patry grew up in Lewiston, Maine, a post-industrial mill town that’s home to Bates College and that, somewhat improbably, was also the site of the notorious Sonny Liston-Muhammed Ali “phantom punch” title fight in 1965. Lewiston’s third claim to fame? The Patry family restaurant Davinci’s Eatery, which recently ended its 30-year run and, along the way, earned Dave’s father Jules the “Maine Restaurateur of the Year” crown in 2012.
So hospitality is in Patry’s blood and, as he tells Brooklyn Magazine, for the past decade he’s been dreaming about opening his own restaurant here in his adopted home of Kings County. “I live in Fort Greene and during the early days of Covid I had a moment where I decided to stop fantasizing and just go for it, because I knew that’s what would make me happiest,” he says. And so we get Dilly Dally, a homey, playful neighborhood spot that opened two weeks ago in the former Petite Patate space on Vanderbilt Avenue.
Big ol’ meatballs, $22 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Dilly Dally may lean into whimsy, decor-wise — just about every design element here, from the logo to the light fixtures to the dozens of prints, photos, and posters that fill the main wall, has a certain character — but Patrey’s kitchen, led for now by Diego Moya, who’s on loan from Margot, is serious about its food.
Moya’s menu is stacked with familiar favorites that, based on a feast here last week, are not so much “elevated” (there’s nothing really cheffy going on) as they are prepared with high-quality ingredients, considerable skill and an abundance of love.
Take the chicken salad sandwich, a bold inclusion on any dinner menu, especially for $23, but here makes a strong case as a burger substitute. The chicken salad itself is nicely gloppy and mayo-y, with tarragon and housemade pickles adding a bit of punch. Laurel Bakery provides the hearty, seedy bread, and the fries that come with are solid companions.
Chicken salad on sourdough with fries, $23 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Dilly Dally does red sauce stuff really well, too. The Bolognese lasagna has about a dozen beefy, creamy layers to it, the edges of the pasta charred to a pleasing chew. It’s delicious, as are the sloppy “big ol’ meatballs,” which come two to an order and, with a side of sourdough or maybe a classic Caesar salad, make for a fine, hearty meal.
Bolognese lasagna, $29 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
And if you want to feel fancy, get Dilly Dally’s first-rate shrimp cocktail, a quintet of sweet, snappy crustaceans served, in classic style, dangling from the rim of a parfait glass filled with horseradish-heavy cocktail sauce. Other appealing food options include a snacky trout dip, a juicy cheeseburger and a skirt steak served with rosemary béarnaise and roasted potatoes.
Shrimp cocktail, $22 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
As you would expect at a neighborhood place that, in its very name, encourages you to linger, there’s an abundance of alcohol at Dilly Dally. Cocktails, which will soon be served on tap (both for expediency and just because it’s fun), run about $16, there are a half-dozen beer and cider choices, Margot’s Kip Green put together the wine list — by the glass or bottle — and Patrey seems particularly excited about the robust amaro selection, perhaps best enjoyed with a fruity, gooey “toaster tart” for dessert. There’s also a brownie sundae on the menu, if you’re feeling decadent.
Toaster tart, $12 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
In the early going it’s hard to tell who’s enjoying themselves more, Patry or his guests, who have been filling the seats every night so far. “I love this stuff,” says Patry. “I think back to the days when I had a desk job, just counting the hours until I could go home each day, and… this is just really fun. I love interacting with people, and engaging with the community. I feel great.”
Dilly Dally is located at 626 Vanderbilt Avenue, between Prospect and Park Places, and is currently open on Wednesday through Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m., with weekend brunch scheduled to start in October.
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